Sewing tension issue-- thread pulls through on BOTH sides?

Question

Hi,
I'm trying to get the tension balanced out on my sewing machine. Everything I can find online shows either the bobbin thread popping through to the front, or the top thread popping through to the back. Trouble is, I have both of these issues at the same time. In between the stitches, I can see a little bit of the thread from the opposite side. What does that mean? Should I loosen both the bobbin and the top thread tensions? Tighten both? Something else? I've had this happen on a number of different fabrics, as well. It's something I struggle with pretty often, and just can't seem to get it consistently figured out-- sometimes I get lucky, but today doesn't seem to be one of those days.

Any advice from a more seasoned seamstress would be very much appreciated. Thanks so much for your help!

Answer 1

I'm guessing that you're not getting the thread into the top and bottom tensions completely, or you're not matching the size of the needle to the size of the thread.



Stop and clean the machine, reset the top tension to 3, and make sure you thread the top of the machine with the presser foot up, and sew with it down. Make sure you're getting the bobbin thread completely under the bobbin tension spring -- you can feel it as it slides under. For test purposes, I'd try different colors of the same thread in the top and bottom of the machine, so you can see what's going on. With standard "dressmaker thread" and a new #12/80 needle, you should have decent stitches with top tension set between someplace 3 and 5. See: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/22521551



The thread diameter should be about 50-60% of the width of the eye of the needle. If it's much too thick or thin, you get stitching that looks like the tension has gone bonkers. See: http://www.gwsms.com/didyouknow.htm (And if you've never looked at a bunch of needles up close and personal: http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/17206792



I'd be happy to help you troubleshoot this further if this doesn't solve your problems. Information that would be very useful to have are type (brand and size) of thread you're using, make and model of the machine, size of needle, and maybe even a photograph or two of the problem stitching.

Answer 2

To adjust the top and bottom tensions with less hassle - get two colors of thread, a piece of plain woven cotton muslin (not the same color as either thread), and a new needle sized to the muslin (probably around a 10 or 12 with a sharp point).



Change the needle. Use one color of thread on the top (needle) and fill a bobbin with the other color. Get the machine ready to sew but don't have the bobbin & bobbin case in the machine at first. Set a medium straight stitch (10 to 12 stitches to the inch). It's a bit of prep work, but it simplifies following the other instructions. Set the top tension to the middle number on the dial (5 if it goes from 0 to 9), so that you can start at the "average" tension.



Thread the machine with the presser foot up and "floss" the thread into the tension disks. Depending on whether you have a horizontal or a vertical bobbin case - you may have to remove two screws to get the plate off the sewing machine to get the bobbin case out of the machine, so that you can adjust the tension screw on it. Top tension is easier - but the bottom tension will really mess up the stitch if it hasn't been adjusted in years......



Take the bobbin case out of the machine and put the bobbin in it. Take four quarters and tape them together. Get a fifth quarter and set it where you can find it. Tie or tape the bobbin thread end to the four quarters. Hold the bobbin case so that the thread would feed the same way that it would in the machine, setting it on the edge of the table where the bobbin will NOT fall out but the thread can unwind as if it were feeding through the machine. This may take a bit of experimenting. A horizontal bobbin case can be held down with one hand while the other is free to mess with the quarters.



No pressure on the bobbin, just the case, so it doesn't fall off. Pull the thread through the little clip with the spring that puts pressure on it when it is sewing.



Drop the quarters (tied to the thread). If the thread feeds out fast - tighten the spring on the clip until it barely feeds any thread (about a hand's breadth - three to four inches) - the spring is too loose if the quarters land on the floor. Get the fifth quarter and add it to the short stack of taped together quarters.



Now drop the quarters (still tied to the bobbin thread) off to the side while holding the bobbin case down so that the bobbin doesn't come out and the case doesn't fall on the floor. It should feed enough thread that the quarters stop just short of the floor (the correct tension is just between four quarters and five quarters in weight). Adjust the spring tension about 1/8 of a turn to the right to tighten and 1/8 of a turn to the left to loosen - usually you want to adjust it a little at a time, because it is too easy to loose the tiny screw if you loosen it too much!



Now that the bobbin case is tensioned close to correctly - put the bobbin case and bobbin in the machine.



Run a line of stitches along the light colored muslin. Try to pull either thread out. If it pulls out easily, tighten the top tension to 5.5. If it won't pull at all or the thread breaks, loosen the top tension to 4.5.



If it is loopy on one side, that side is a lot tighter and the thread coming from the other side is too loose.



Once it is "right", it should be all one color on the top, the other color on the bottom, and if you have two layers of fabric - you can pull it apart and see tiny two colored knots of thread between the layers of fabric.



To really fine tune it, take two squares of fabric, place them together, and stitch from one corner to the diagonal opposite corner. Take it off the machine (do not clip the end threads too close to the fabric) and pull on the corners. Any breaks in the stitching should be at about the same time, if you

ve got the tension really close to being balanced. If it breaks on one side but not the other - tighten the side that didn't break.

Answer 3

Try rethreading both top and bottom with good brand thread and tighten both tensions. This can happen when sewing without the pressure foot down...silly i know but can happen. Messing with tensions is last resort but if you have already done this start from factory default settings on tension settings and foot settings with new needle using cotton material. See what happens and adjust as needed per manual. If there are still problems you might want to have machine looked at by repair person.

Answer 4

What thread are you using? What needle are you using? Are they matched to the fabric that you are sewing? It's possible that thread you are using is wrong. For fine fabrics you can get visible stitches when the thread is too heavy and/or the needle too thick. Use a finer gauge needle for sewing finer fabrics and use a finer thread. Coats and Clark makes a finer gauge thread that works well for fine and delicate fabrics and you don't get show through. I've switched to this thread for delicate fabrics and I've noticed a difference. The finer thread also allows you to use a finer needle, which pokes smaller holes in the fabric. Thick thread isn't always stronger, thick thread can make your sewing look clunky and chunky. Use smooth, high quality threads, don't use fuzzy, cheap thread. My favorite all-purpose thread is Gutterman 100% pure polyester thread. It's strong, durable, doesn't shrink, doesn't shred, doesn't fade and has enough "give" that seams can stretch and flex without popping.



How does the seam look after pressing? Perhaps you are worrying about something that doesn't need that much worry. After sewing many seams can look a little seamy, they need to be pressed before they look good. After sewing your seam press the seam flat to blend the stitches. This step is essential but it's one that is often skipped or one that many sewers know nothing about. After the seam is pressed does it look better? Now open up the seam and press it flat on the wrong side. Flip it over and examine it now. It should look flat and the stitching should look "blended" with the fabric. It won't be 100% invisible, but it should look like it belongs together.



Here's a couple helpful links about matching needles, thread and fabrics:

http://www.coatsandclark.com/Products/Sewing/Threads/Dual+Duty+XP/XP+Thread+Advisor.htm

http://www.sewing.org/files/guidelines/22_115_sewing_machine_needle_charts.pdf

http://sewing.about.com/od/sewingmachineindex/ig/Sewing-Machine-Needles/Parts-of-a-Needle.--91.htm

The best needles are made by Schmetz and they have an extensive help center: http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/all-about-needles.htm including this page about needles: http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/needle-primer.htm and this illustrated print at home full color brochure: http://www.schmetzneedles.com/learning/pdf/schmetz-needle-chart.pdf

Answer 5

I've had some similar issues.. Typically Ioosen or tighten depending on issue.. Sew on some scrap fabric.. Adjust it as I go until it seems right.