How do you add stitches to a row that alternates knit-purl-knit-purl?
?
2008-12-11 12:24:45 UTC
I'm a n00b so any help would be fabulous
Five answers:
♥mat
2008-12-11 14:00:48 UTC
If the first stitch is a knit you would want a purl to appear to its right so purl into the front of that first knit stitch, don't take it off the needle, then knit into it. At the end the last stitch is a purl and you want a knit to its left so that last purl stitch, purl it then without taking it off the needle, knit it. i tried knitting several row increasing on the right side that way and it worked, and looked good. I didn't work into the backs of stitches, just knitted and purled the stitches in the normal spots. The rows between the increases just make sure you work the ribbing in sequence.
The next row you need to increase ends up with a purl at the beginning so knit it and then purl it. At the end you have a knit stitch so knit it then purl it.
I also tried doing the second half of each knit front, purl back or purl front, knit back through the back loop and that works too, but I don't know that it is any great improvement.
Pam D
2008-12-11 17:32:29 UTC
You will often be asked to increase on the last row of your band to give a more gathered appearance to your work.
Your instructions would generally say to increase 6 stitches evenly across the row. So, if you had 50 stitches on your needle you would increase probably on the first or second stitch and then increase every 8 stitches across the row. Always count the number of stitches when you have finished that row to make sure that you have done the correct number of increases.
You can do the increases either by k1,p1 into one stitch or by picking up the thread between the stitches, putting on the left needle and knitting into the back of the stitch.
Increasing across the row of a garment done entirely in rib will change the lines of the rib and will be noticeable. I've only ever had to do this on a hat and that part wasn't noticeable as it was underneath the turned up brim on a beanie.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
hairbender
2008-12-11 15:40:23 UTC
It depends on where you want to add them. If you are just making your row wider, then you normally add them at the end of a row, before you turn to work back. You can use any technique for casting on stitches, such as the backward "e". Or you can do the cable cast on after you turn and do them at the beginning of the row. Both work about the same. You will want to add an even number of stitches usually, although that is not critical. Just remember to work them all in pattern (plan ahead).
You can also increase in the middle of the row, depending on the pattern you are doing. You can use any increase stitch you like, or what works in this case.
anonymous
2016-11-15 08:54:35 UTC
Garter stitch, the place you knit or purl each row (no longer commerce rows of one then the different) produces what appear like ridges of little bumps or bricks. it is for the reason which you many times use a similar face of the stitch in each and each row. once you commerce rows then you definitely get one fabric face that sounds like columns of Vs, it is the knitted area, and rows of bumps (they actually look to me like working bond brickwork), that's the purl face, it is stockinette or stocking stitch. once you prefer ribbing you commerce knit and purl stitches in a similar row after which once you turn to knit the different face, you knit the place the V stitches are decrease than the needle, and purl the place the bumps are decrease than the needle. Textured knitting varieties are based on the countless visual appeal of those 2 stitches. BTW, the version in the visual appeal of those 2 stitches is the clarification that stockinette rolls. The geometry of the stitches is distinctive. Purl stitches are extra sq., knit stitches are vertically oblong. The yarn needs the shapes to be a similar and to apply a similar quantity of yarn in each and each stitch so it tries to even itself out, pulling the fabric to sit down down back itself right into a good shape, which motives rolling. it is the reason stockinette knit products meant to proceed to be flat--scarves or afghans--constantly desire a border of a non-rolling stitch like garter or moss stitch. Stockinette products meant to be sewn mutually, like sweaters, have the roll cancelled via the seaming because of the fact the guy products opt to roll in distinctive instructions. it is likewise how one gets rolled hems or necklines on sweaters or rolled brims on hats, you in simple terms do no longer positioned a border on those edges.
vnelson85
2008-12-11 12:32:43 UTC
you would add the stitches at the beginning of the row 1 stitch in, work that stitch in the knit purl pattern.
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